0-0-60 In what rates do I apply it?
- Thread starter whitewing
- Start date
Help Support CattleToday:
novatech
Well-known member
For hybrid bermuda a ratio of 4-1-2 is normal. So it depends on what you have already applied and how much you have removed via hay.
Here is a link that may help.
http://lubbock.tamu.edu/othercrops/pdf/ ... dafert.pdf
Here is a link that may help.
http://lubbock.tamu.edu/othercrops/pdf/ ... dafert.pdf
OP
OP
whitewing
Well-known member
dun":ivjaj140 said:
Perhaps it is a waste, but I suspect not. Folks with a lot more years than I cutting hay have told me that baling bermuda sucks a lot of K out of the ground and that eventually my yields will decline if I don't replace it. Secondly, it's hard to find here. I bought 4 - 50 kilo sacks when I came across them at a farm supply shop. My intention is to test a small area that I've been baling and see if it makes any difference at all.
As for the soil tests, they're on my list on "summer" projects.
The waste is hte fuel and fertilizer used that may be inadequate for your needs or surplus to your needs. If you start with a soil test at least you can roughly calculate based on the amount of hay removed how much is required to bring it up to optimum levels. I gues I'm just old school and figure you shold meausre before making corrections.whitewing":2vco9xej said:dun":2vco9xej said:
Perhaps it is a waste, but I suspect not. Folks with a lot more years than I cutting hay have told me that baling bermuda sucks a lot of K out of the ground and that eventually my yields will decline if I don't replace it. Secondly, it's hard to find here. I bought 4 - 50 kilo sacks when I came across them at a farm supply shop. My intention is to test a small area that I've been baling and see if it makes any difference at all.
As for the soil tests, they're on my list on "summer" projects.
dun":1lzjm88h said:The waste is hte fuel and fertilizer used that may be inadequate for your needs or surplus to your needs. If you start with a soil test at least you can roughly calculate based on the amount of haywhitewing":1lzjm88h said:dun":1lzjm88h said:
Perhaps it is a waste, but I suspect not. Folks with a lot more years than I cutting hay have told me that baling bermuda sucks a lot of K out of the ground and that eventually my yields will decline if I don't replace it. Secondly, it's hard to find here. I bought 4 - 50 kilo sacks when I came across them at a farm supply shop. My intention is to test a small area that I've been baling and see if it makes any difference at all.
As for the soil tests, they're on my list on "summer" projects.
removed how much is required to bring it up to optimum levels. I gues I'm just old school and figure you shold meausre before making corrections.
I agree with Dun. At least test the sample paddock before applying. No need to waste if you don't have to.
1982vett
Well-known member
whitewing":30hpe3nk said:
........................................ :bang:................................. :deadhorse: .......
:lol: but really, by the pics you posted, doesn't look like much is missing. yes a soil test is the only way to know for sure, every thing else is a guess and leaching characteristics of your soils is your enemy of putting out something you might not really need. but IMO it's easier to maintain fertility than rebuild fertility.
OP
OP
whitewing
Well-known member
dun":289r05w2 said:The waste is hte fuel and fertilizer used that may be inadequate for your needs or surplus to your needs. If you start with a soil test at least you can roughly calculate based on the amount of hay removed how much is required to bring it up to optimum levels. I gues I'm just old school and figure you shold meausre before making corrections.whitewing":289r05w2 said:dun":289r05w2 said:
Perhaps it is a waste, but I suspect not. Folks with a lot more years than I cutting hay have told me that baling bermuda sucks a lot of K out of the ground and that eventually my yields will decline if I don't replace it. Secondly, it's hard to find here. I bought 4 - 50 kilo sacks when I came across them at a farm supply shop. My intention is to test a small area that I've been baling and see if it makes any difference at all.
As for the soil tests, they're on my list on "summer" projects.
Old school certainly beats no school. ;-) As for the price of fuel, here it's basically free. I fill up my Ford Triton w/95 octane, a 55 gallon drum with the same, and two drums of diesel for $7.00 :banana:
James T
Well-known member
Whitewing, the following might be a help to you but with a soil test you would know exactly how much to put out.
"Traditional recommendations of applying a 3:2 ratio of nitrogen to potassium seem to hold up in current research."
Apparently, additional K, by itself, doesn't help Bermuda a whole lot and excess K is simply wasted. But, K combined with N can make a big difference. http://archive.lib.msu.edu/tic/gcman/ar ... 9dec54.pdf
I agree that your grass looks great! But, it's nutritional content that counts. Once you modify the soil, as per a soil test, you can test the hay after the next cutting and use those results for your own feeding program as well as determining best price for any hay you sell!
"Traditional recommendations of applying a 3:2 ratio of nitrogen to potassium seem to hold up in current research."
Apparently, additional K, by itself, doesn't help Bermuda a whole lot and excess K is simply wasted. But, K combined with N can make a big difference. http://archive.lib.msu.edu/tic/gcman/ar ... 9dec54.pdf
I agree that your grass looks great! But, it's nutritional content that counts. Once you modify the soil, as per a soil test, you can test the hay after the next cutting and use those results for your own feeding program as well as determining best price for any hay you sell!
OP
OP
whitewing
Well-known member
James T":2the1yvr said:
Thanks for the info JamesT!
I'm on my 4th cut this season and have seen my yields come down substantially though I think much of that can be attributed to the fact that we're shifting from "winter" to "summer" and rainfall has really dropped off. I'm putting water at night right now and believe that that has helped a lot. I just made my 4th cut on one section and the yields are virtually identical to the 3rd cut (didn't rely as heavily on irrigation for that one). The grass itself also looks really good generally, deep green and juicy, just not as tall and thick as before. Also, even though the rains have dropped off and I'm relying on my irrigation system, I'm still cutting at about 30 - 35 days.
I really do need to get those soil tests done so I know for sure where I am.
BC
Well-known member
Several years ago, there was a result demonstration done here in Van Zandt County that involved the Extension Service and Stephen F Austin State University Agriculture Department. What I took away from that multi-year study was that 80 units of K every cutting gave the most bang for the buck. More than that was sucked up in the plant in luxury consumption and less than that was mining the soil over a period of time.
