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From what I am reading that model could have had either common rail or mechanical injection depending on the year. Can't chip a mechanical pump, but their fueling can be adjusted pretty easily. Always best to do it on a dyno with a pyrometer to ensure that it's set within safe limits, one turn...

Anyone that spends enough time in one will put it on it's nose once or twice. After the first few times you'll develop a quick enough reflex to drop the boom when it starts to tip. Rocking one backwards has a lot more pucker factor to me. I'll never use a tree puller on one again.

Takes half the toolbox to work on the stupid things, the engines have metric fasteners, but the chassis is all standard. Also plenty of torx and allen mixed in. Take the primary clutch off, polish up the slides and the journal where the main bushing rides. May also want to shim or replace the...

No kidding. Even on our smooth ground I won't go much faster than 5mph.

2 hours? You running in road gear? I'm lucky to hit 60 acres in a day with a 20 footer.

That's correct, and drawbar heights between tractors vary quite a bit so it'll need to be adjusted for each one, assuming it's a pull type. The HX15 has had a new CV joint a few years ago, and a wing drive shaft started seizing up a couple years ago, which ruined the input bearings on the wing...

Interesting. We've got an HX20 and an HX15, they both cut like a lawn mower and stripe well.

Can't go wrong with a Gator or a Mule.

For clipping pastures I'd say that's enough. If you're shredding thick brush and small trees, you'll want a lot more power. Also depends on what tractor, those mowers are pretty tongue heavy, could make the front end light. I always thought JD cutters cut the best but were the least heavy...

During one of the small ice storms we had this year, my Mom busted the door handle on her van. No biggie, ordered one on Ebay, swung by Sunday morning to swap it out. I opened the door, pulled the door panel, removed the handle and went looking for the new one, couldn't find it. Never once...

To add to all that, the Ford back up cameras can't be removed without breaking them. Smart engineering there. These new LED taillights with proximity/radar sensors are expensive as all get out too. A whole assembly with everything in it gets into the thousands.

I do know that the seals for ORB fittings are made of firmer rubber than standard O-rings. I ordered a bunch in common sizes a while back.

Go too far then you get into the "while you're in there" situation and end up rebuilding the whole thing. Manifold hardware and gaskets for sure, even if they look okay. Super common on those. Definitely replace the rear main, oil pan is not a bad idea since you usually can't remove it in a 4x4...

They typically recommend the first oil change at 50 hours or something after break in. You sure they're original or not just OEM replacements?

I could see the use, but I could also see where it could lead you astray. I don't see that tool being able to put enough load on the relay to really give you an accurate test, it'll tell you if the coil is good but that's about all. The tool you really want is a relay breakout box, that allows...

I don't see anything glaring. PTO shield is a little banged up and it appears someone lost one of the lift arm pins at some point and stuck a hitch pin in the right side. By the fading I'd say it spent quite a bit of time outside. Looks like that roof skin is about $1500 from Kubota so that...

That's not an issue. Most tractors that have the battery hidden will have a jump start lug somewhere that's accessible, it'll usually have a red colored rubber cover on it. I'm a big fan of battery disconnects or battery maintainers on equipment that sits. Letting batteries sit dead is very...

It'll probably start right up if it's gonna be that warm. I've had mixed results with diesel 911. When the system is clogged with gelled fuel it's hard to get it circulated enough to do anything. Pretreating with power service or whatever additive is a much better solution. Don't trust that...

Considering half the list is garden tractors, I have a hard time giving it any credibility. I'd say the peak of reliability for JD started with the late 40 series Sound guard tractors and ended sometime in the late 2000s before emissions took over. Try to find a good deal on a 4960 or a 7810...

3pt pallet forks, a liquid tote, a pump, and a boomless nozzle will do the same thing for a lot less money.