fence tips and tricks

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True Grit Farms
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Post by True Grit Farms » Tue Dec 18, 2018 12:06 pm

callmefence wrote:
fence_it wrote:Winter fencin' and a real post driver ;-) And yes it does work. :cboy:

https://imgur.com/LDTnxAl

https://imgur.com/8MMqco3

https://imgur.com/vKBumyo



Nice rig.
I really wish I'd bought a super slide type rig for my tractor mount driver. I bought the shaver 12 and it's just got more than you need driving pipe. I'm gonna sell it and by a three point driver with the hydraulic slide.

Sell for how much? Is drill pipe better or worse than the galvanized tube for price and quality?


If we'd of know this we'd of picked our own cotton.

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Re: fence tips and tricks

Post by callmefence » Tue Dec 18, 2018 12:26 pm

True Grit Farms wrote:
callmefence wrote:
fence_it wrote:Winter fencin' and a real post driver ;-) And yes it does work. :cboy:

https://imgur.com/LDTnxAl

https://imgur.com/8MMqco3

https://imgur.com/vKBumyo



Nice rig.
I really wish I'd bought a super slide type rig for my tractor mount driver. I bought the shaver 12 and it's just got more than you need driving pipe. I'm gonna sell it and by a three point driver with the hydraulic slide.

Sell for how much? Is drill pipe better or worse than the galvanized tube for price and quality?


Probably gonna try to get 6000.00
Still in good shape has hydraulic tilt.
Edit....I'm in the market for a gently used small seed drill :hat:

New drill pipe is better than most galvanized pipe. Simply because it's made of much higher carbon steel. I can drive drill stem in rock where most galvanized pipe will bend. Most galvanized pipe runs ss40 at the heaviest. Problem is there is a pretty good spread to spec ss40.
So there can be a good difference in wall thickness and it still be ss40. I spent 15 years building commercial chain link. Both as project super and subcontractor
Fort Worth Federal prison
State prison at Brownwood and venus
Us mint at fort Worth
Commanche peak nuke power plant ( where boogie works)
Texas motor speedway
Carswell air Force Base
Fort Army reservation
And dozens of high school sport complexes.
And the list goes on.
I know galvanized pipe. The lower quality and thinner walled pipe is no good. I want at least a quarter wall thickness and prefer 5/16 .
The 1/8to3/16 will bow between the ground and the horizontal. And of course it will also rust away faster.

Now you take to equal post of course the galvanized is better. Better value depends on your climate.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Post by True Grit Farms » Tue Dec 18, 2018 12:50 pm

callmefence wrote:
True Grit Farms wrote:
callmefence wrote:

Nice rig.
I really wish I'd bought a super slide type rig for my tractor mount driver. I bought the shaver 12 and it's just got more than you need driving pipe. I'm gonna sell it and by a three point driver with the hydraulic slide.

Sell for how much? Is drill pipe better or worse than the galvanized tube for price and quality?


Probably gonna try to get 6000.00
Still in good shape has hydraulic tilt.
Edit....I'm in the market for a gently used small seed drill :hat:

New drill pipe is better than most galvanized pipe. Simply because it's made of much higher carbon steel. I can drive drill stem in rock where most galvanized pipe will bend. Most galvanized pipe runs ss40 at the heaviest. Problem is there is a pretty good spread to spec ss40.
So there can be a good difference in wall thickness and it still be ss40. I spent 15 years building commercial chain link. Both as project super and subcontractor
Fort Worth Federal prison
State prison at Brownwood and venus
Us mint at fort Worth
Commanche peak nuke power plant ( where boogie works)
Texas motor speedway
Carswell air Force Base
Fort Army reservation
And dozens of high school sport complexes.
And the list goes on.
I know galvanized pipe. The lower quality and thinner walled pipe is no good. I want at least a quarter wall thickness and prefer 5/16 .
The 1/8to3/16 will bow between the ground and the horizontal. And of course it will also rust away faster.

Now you take to equal post of course the galvanized is better. Better value depends on your climate.

Maybe Shaver can add the hydraulic slide as a kit?
If we'd of know this we'd of picked our own cotton.

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Re: fence tips and tricks

Post by callmefence » Tue Dec 18, 2018 1:27 pm

True Grit Farms wrote:
callmefence wrote:
True Grit Farms wrote:Sell for how much? Is drill pipe better or worse than the galvanized tube for price and quality?


Probably gonna try to get 6000.00
Still in good shape has hydraulic tilt.
Edit....I'm in the market for a gently used small seed drill :hat:

New drill pipe is better than most galvanized pipe. Simply because it's made of much higher carbon steel. I can drive drill stem in rock where most galvanized pipe will bend. Most galvanized pipe runs ss40 at the heaviest. Problem is there is a pretty good spread to spec ss40.
So there can be a good difference in wall thickness and it still be ss40. I spent 15 years building commercial chain link. Both as project super and subcontractor
Fort Worth Federal prison
State prison at Brownwood and venus
Us mint at fort Worth
Commanche peak nuke power plant ( where boogie works)
Texas motor speedway
Carswell air Force Base
Fort Army reservation
And dozens of high school sport complexes.
And the list goes on.
I know galvanized pipe. The lower quality and thinner walled pipe is no good. I want at least a quarter wall thickness and prefer 5/16 .
The 1/8to3/16 will bow between the ground and the horizontal. And of course it will also rust away faster.

Now you take to equal post of course the galvanized is better. Better value depends on your climate.

Maybe Shaver can add the hydraulic slide as a kit?


Maybe. But I think it's just available in the 10. I'm sure you cut marry the 10 slide to the 12.
We very rarely use it anymore. But I insist on having some sort of backup driver. I'm kinda working towards something that'll drive at Least a 14' post for doing deer fence
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Post by True Grit Farms » Tue Dec 18, 2018 1:54 pm

callmefence wrote:
True Grit Farms wrote:
callmefence wrote:
Probably gonna try to get 6000.00
Still in good shape has hydraulic tilt.
Edit....I'm in the market for a gently used small seed drill :hat:

New drill pipe is better than most galvanized pipe. Simply because it's made of much higher carbon steel. I can drive drill stem in rock where most galvanized pipe will bend. Most galvanized pipe runs ss40 at the heaviest. Problem is there is a pretty good spread to spec ss40.
So there can be a good difference in wall thickness and it still be ss40. I spent 15 years building commercial chain link. Both as project super and subcontractor
Fort Worth Federal prison
State prison at Brownwood and venus
Us mint at fort Worth
Commanche peak nuke power plant ( where boogie works)
Texas motor speedway
Carswell air Force Base
Fort Army reservation
And dozens of high school sport complexes.
And the list goes on.
I know galvanized pipe. The lower quality and thinner walled pipe is no good. I want at least a quarter wall thickness and prefer 5/16 .
The 1/8to3/16 will bow between the ground and the horizontal. And of course it will also rust away faster.

Now you take to equal post of course the galvanized is better. Better value depends on your climate.

Maybe Shaver can add the hydraulic slide as a kit?


Maybe. But I think it's just available in the 10. I'm sure you cut marry the 10 slide to the 12.
We very rarely use it anymore. But I insist on having some sort of backup driver. I'm kinda working towards something that'll drive at Least a 14' post for doing deer fence

I've always wondered why folks don't just use the front loader and add hydraulic legs to stabilize the driver. A deer fence is what's in my future plans. I'm looking at driving a piece of elevator pipe as a casing and using the piston as the post. I have a good supply of used pipe, it's just so big I don't know if it's more trouble than it's worth.
If we'd of know this we'd of picked our own cotton.

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Re: fence tips and tricks

Post by callmefence » Tue Dec 18, 2018 2:07 pm

True Grit Farms wrote:
callmefence wrote:
True Grit Farms wrote:Maybe Shaver can add the hydraulic slide as a kit?


Maybe. But I think it's just available in the 10. I'm sure you cut marry the 10 slide to the 12.
We very rarely use it anymore. But I insist on having some sort of backup driver. I'm kinda working towards something that'll drive at Least a 14' post for doing deer fence

I've always wondered why folks don't just use the front loader and add hydraulic legs to stabilize the driver. A deer fence is what's in my future plans. I'm looking at driving a piece of elevator pipe as a casing and using the piston as the post. I have a good supply of used pipe, it's just so big I don't know if it's more trouble than it's worth.


Lol
Ive often wondered why folks in soft bottomless ground using pipe have a driver at all. Just push em in with the loader.


I don't know how big. But use the big pipe for post and buy some 2" for your brace horizontal and diagonals. No copes to cut and way less welding.

You don't want to be cutting and welding 6" copes. Trust me
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Post by fence_it » Wed Dec 19, 2018 9:22 pm

callmefence wrote:
fence_it wrote:Winter fencin' and a real post driver ;-) And yes it does work. :cboy:

https://imgur.com/LDTnxAl

https://imgur.com/8MMqco3

https://imgur.com/vKBumyo



Nice rig.
I really wish I'd bought a super slide type rig for my tractor mount driver. I bought the shaver 12 and it's just got more than you need driving pipe. I'm gonna sell it and by a three point driver with the hydraulic slide.


I find it hard to use an H-beam driver having used the Kinghitter. It is so much easier on the operater, hits harder, and is much easier to get posts level. The independent post cap controlling the post is genius, I don't know why American manufacturers haven't caught on to this. Plus you get the option of a rock spike, really a must in the variable ground conditions around here. We have the 16' model which will drive 14' posts, but they make it in a 12' which will do 10' posts. Folding mast of course but the 12' is supposedly much easier to maneuver and cart around.

We will still be using our side mount Shaver for the small acreage jobs, just because it is so easy to maneuver and can get into tight places (between trees, next to buildings, etc.) that a 16' Kinghitter and 70hp tractor can't. The Kinghitter will be reserved for larger jobs and deer fence. Currently working on fabricating a t-post holder for it.

I wouldn't buy a Kinghitter new though, I believe they run about 25-30k. We picked this one up because it was local, and cheap. If your after a new 3pt driver, I heard there's some guy around here who is a Protech dealer. There pretty comparable. Or used Kinghitter's do pop up from time to time, I know a fella in Nebraska who may have one he would part with, or there is one in Wisconsin on Craigslist.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Post by T & B farms » Fri Dec 21, 2018 11:52 am

Anyone used stay tuff 14 gauge high tensile wire? Is is any good? Better than 16 gauge goucho? Considering using it over ok brand 12.5 gauge. It is very close to the same price

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Re: fence tips and tricks

Post by callmefence » Fri Dec 21, 2018 12:03 pm

T & B farms wrote:Anyone used stay tuff 14 gauge high tensile wire? Is is any good? Better than 16 gauge goucho? Considering using it over ok brand 12.5 gauge. It is very close to the same price


Yes it is a very good wire.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Post by greybeard » Fri Dec 21, 2018 1:25 pm

callmefence wrote:
Lol
Ive often wondered why folks in soft bottomless ground using pipe have a driver at all. Just push em in with the loader

In my case, it's because the clay ground don't stay soft and bottomless....well, maybe bottomless, but in the good weather months, the top few feet hardens like the proverbial hooker's heart.


callmefence wrote:

New drill pipe is better than most galvanized pipe....

When you say 'drill pipe' are you using production casing or drill pipe like is used on the drilling rigs?
Most common used 4"DP weighs 14lbs/ft and has a wall thickness of just over 5/16.
2-7/8"DP weighs 10.4 lbs/ft and wall thickness of .362 which is almost 3/8".

Production casing is much lighter & thinner unless it was heavyweigt casing.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Post by callmefence » Fri Dec 21, 2018 2:32 pm

greybeard wrote:
callmefence wrote:
Lol
Ive often wondered why folks in soft bottomless ground using pipe have a driver at all. Just push em in with the loader

In my case, it's because the clay ground don't stay soft and bottomless....well, maybe bottomless, but in the good weather months, the top few feet hardens like the proverbial hooker's heart.


callmefence wrote:

New drill pipe is better than most galvanized pipe....

When you say 'drill pipe' are you using production casing or drill pipe like is used on the drilling rigs?
Most common used 4"DP weighs 14lbs/ft and has a wall thickness of just over 5/16.
2-7/8"DP weighs 10.4 lbs/ft and wall thickness of .362 which is almost 3/8".

Production casing is much lighter & thinner unless it was heavyweigt casing.


We either drill stem . Or rejected structural pipe. The hardness of drill stem is very noticeable if you try to cut it with the bandsaw. When driving in rock drill stem is by far superior.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Post by samanthasteven » Thu Dec 27, 2018 12:18 am

:D very good setup :)

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Re: fence tips and tricks

Post by T & B farms » Thu Dec 27, 2018 4:55 pm

Getting ready to string up my first ever stay tough 14 guage HT. Any tips? I’ve built dozens of miles of red brand and OK brand 12.5 gauge wire. Do you stretch this similar? Is double wrapping post needed?

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Re: fence tips and tricks

Post by fence_it » Thu Dec 27, 2018 11:26 pm

T & B farms wrote:Getting ready to string up my first ever stay tough 14 guage HT. Any tips? I’ve built dozens of miles of red brand and OK brand 12.5 gauge wire. Do you stretch this similar? Is double wrapping post needed?


You'll find that it stretches easier and tighter than traditional barb. I wouldn't bother double wrapping, just strip the barbs and tie it off good.
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Re: fence tips and tricks

Post by callmefence » Fri Dec 28, 2018 7:14 am

T & B farms wrote:Getting ready to string up my first ever stay tough 14 guage HT. Any tips? I’ve built dozens of miles of red brand and OK brand 12.5 gauge wire. Do you stretch this similar? Is double wrapping post needed?


Stretch just like regular Barb. Real tight.
The big difference is it will stay at the tension you stretch it to. As long as your braces hold. I highly recommend the double wrap unless you want to to it wrong. Lol.... stripping Barb's is optional.
Stretch with a come along and dog. The 14 gauge ht is the best bw available imho. Tommorow we will start stretching just short of 7 miles of 6 Barb.
14 gauge HT. I'll take a few pics of the gear we use.

Also
https://youtu.be/4JfMXx6kyWA

Edit to add... you'll need either fence pliers made for high tensile. And gripples or crimps for splicing.
I highly recommend the knipex mini boltcutters and gripples
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