Recent content by chevytaHOE5674

I've got a bull who in the 4 years I've used him on nearly 100 cows I've NEVER seen him mount or even sniff around a cow. So if I was just watching and taking notes I would have shipped him long ago. But he got a group of 25 synced cows in 1 cycle last time out. He's apparently shy and likes...

2nd pump gives about 8-9gpm more flow. But if your loader is slow you may want to flow test the pump in the rear axle first. Along with the 2nd pump you need the suction line that goes to the right hand side of the tranmission housing, the pressure line going to the priority valve, you also...

Special Utility tractor I believe it was. Back half of a Ford 4000 in this case with the short wheelbase and associated axle of the smaller 3000 series. Giving them a lower profile and shorter turning radius.

Emissions and fuel systems on a new diesel can get real costly when put of warranty.

Ah missed the su part.

Should mention that a 3600 isn't a great candidate for a loader. The swept back front axle isn't the strongest, it's swept back design will cause the back end to get real light when lifting with the loader, also the radius rods tend to bow/buckle with loader weight over time.

It has a hydraulic clutch pack to give you independent PTO power. This is the preferred setup, to go back to some 2-stage dry clutch system one would have to buy an old machine or hunt for some obscure model anymore. 99.9% of operators want a 100% independent wet clutch PTO.

Brackets for a 4000 are not the same as a 3600 fyi so the measurements won't be of much use.

A loader for a 5000 won't fit without a lot of modifications. 5000 is a 4cyl engine and larger frame size. A Ford 730 loader with correct brackets would be the Ford loader for it. But there were plenty of aftermarket loaders that were sold to fit. From experience it's best to find one with...

Also at the cost difference between between a single and a double I always add a double because you get the 4th remote for very little extra cost.

Why do you need to add the pump to add another remote? There's also a combining valve that goes along with the 2nd pump. You need the valve, lines, and shuttle Tee between the remote sections.

We bale hay all the time with temps in the 50s, 60s, and 70s. Low relative humidity and wind can dry things out even at lower temps.

You guys must have much drier climates than around here. Thick clover takes 5-7 days of steady tedding to have any chance at being dry hay around here (and i havent had a 5 day weather window in at least 10 years haha). Even when it feels dry it's still usually well over 20% and molds in a few...

Clean everything real real well. The cap in the first picture with the 3 Allen screws comes off and the spool comes out that direction. Make sure the end of the spool with the linkage is clean and free of any debris and burrs before you push it thru. There's really no seals or anything in there...